The decorative stitch along the edge of a jacket's lapel (and occasionally on pockets, sleeve heads, sleeves and side seams) is just that; decorative. It's an ornamental feature that was originally done by hand by skilled artisans. The issue with doing the stitch by hand is that, like all hand made attributes, it looks irregular and is often expensive to produce.
American Machine & Foundry is a company that sought a solution to that problem. Founded in 1900, they made a plethora of goods including bowling centers, atomic reactors, tennis racquets and stitching machines. The stitch is now synonymous with the company, being referred to as an AMF stitch.
Typically set at 2mm or 6mm from the edge of a seam, the stitch is a sign of a quality garment. Nowadays, most suits have some AMF (or pick) stitching as it has become a hallmark of tailoring. Some suit manufacturers choose to omit the stitch which is often referred to as a bluff edge. We offer all 3 options. Pictured below are prime examples of our 2mm and 6mm AMF stitch options.